El Diente Peak Route Guide – A Class 3 San Juan 14er

El Diente Peak isn’t technically a ranked fourteener, as it doesn’t rise at least 300 feet above its saddle with its taller neighbor, Mount Wilson. However the peak is officially named for historical reasons, and it’s a tough but exciting class 3 climb to reach the summit. For these reasons, many people include the El Diente Peak route on their fourteener to-do list. The standard route using the Rock of Ages approach is best used in early summer when the north face gully is still filled with snow. A crampons and ice axe are a good idea for this ascent, along with the skills to use them both. 

NEW TO 14ERS? CHECK OUT MY BEGINNERS GUIDE FOR A SAFE FIRST SUMMIT!

El Diente Peak Route Guide Fast Facts

El Diente Peak Route Guide - North Slopes

Alex Derr, Creator of The Next Summit

Alex is an Eagle Scout and mountaineer living in Denver, Colorado. He created The Next Summit to help others stay safe exploring the mountains and advocate to preserve the peaks for the future. You can subscribe to his Next Summit Newsletter here.

Enjoy This Post? Join The Next Summit Newsletter to get advice, news & stories!