Climbing Mount Shasta via Avalanche Gulch: Advice for 14er Success

Mount Shasta rises dramatically over Northern California, dwarfing the smaller summits and peaks below its slopes. As a large stratovolcano, Mount Shasta rises taller than any other peak for hundreds of miles. The large amount of snowfall it receives sustains numerous glaciers around its summit, and most climbing routes involve travel over snow and ice. This makes it a great beginners peak for new mountaineers, especially if climbing Mount Shasta via Avalanche Gulch. Be sure you take time to learn to use your ice axe and crampons before your climb if you’re new to snow climbing.

The most common route climbing Mount Shasta via Avalanche Gulch is best climbed in June.  If you go too soon and you’ll face too much snow. If you go too late you’ll deal with increased rockfall risk. Because of the strenuous climbing and significant elevation gain, most people climb it over 2-3 days, with stops at Horse Camp and Helen Lake along the way. There is no application like Mount Whitney, though you do need a self-service Summit Pass that you can fill out at the trailhead Once you decide on a date for your adventure, plan a climb with my Mt Shasta route guide.

NEW TO 14ERS? CHECK OUT MY BEGINNERS GUIDE FOR A SAFE FIRST SUMMIT!

Climbing Mount Shasta Via Avalanche Gulch | Trip Fast Facts

Climbing Mount Shasta via Avalanche Gulch

Alex Derr, Creator of The Next Summit

Alex is an Eagle Scout, climber, and environmental policy expert located in Denver, Colorado. He created The Next Summit to help others stay safe exploring the mountains and advocate to preserve the peaks for the future. Follow him on Linkedin or Twitter or click here to contact him.

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